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samtree 2020-05-02 20:55:10
VISUAL INSPECTION : Quality of construction very good, no loose components, no bad solder joints. PERFORMANCE : It worked just out of the box. I left it without load for about 15 minutes and then I coupled three 12 Volts 50 Watts bulbs connected in series. Output 4.2 Amps (150 W). No smoke, no smell, no noise at all, output voltage extremely stable at 35.77 Volts (with no load) and 35.7 Volts (with 4.2 Amps load). So far so very good. Then I tested it more thoroughly with the same setup at 4.2 Amps (no smaller loads). My findings A. Voltage : Extremely stable. B. Cooling : Poor. As other reviewers have said, it can get really hot. After 10 minute at 4.2 amps, the temperature of the output heatsink reached 52 degrees Celsius and was going up (photo 1). Transformer and input heatsink were also too hot, output capacitors also felt hot. I installed above it a 8x8 cm, 24 Volts, 60 mA fan, and now it is really cold – after hours still 31 degrees Celsius. Perfect C. Output ripple (with 20 MHz filter set to ON): Not acceptable. At 4.2 Amps, it is about 850 mVp-p (photo 2), consisting mainly of a sinewave (630 mVp-p, photo 3) and on top of it are added the spikes ( 210 to 250 mVp-p - photo 4) due to the switching frequency. Reason: inadequate output capacitance. By simply adding a 4700 uF capacitor on the output (you can connect it directly to the spare positions on the output connector), the ripple goes down to about 350 mVp-p (photo 5). The quasi-sine wave is now much smaller (ca 50 mVp-p – photo 6), while the spikes remain the same. If you want, you can add on the output an additional LC filter like I did (13,5 mH inductor from the junkbox + 1000 uF capacitor), and go down to less than 160 mVp-p overall ripple (photo 7) because spikes are now 130 mVp-p or less (photo 8). Not bad. Conclusion : Add a fan and a 4700 uF output capacitor, and you have a decent general purpose 36 Volts Power Supply, with enough output current and for a very low price.
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samtree 2020-06-13 16:50:12
AMAZING. That’s all. I bought it because I needed a clamp ammeter that can measure both AC and DC, and it proved to be much more. Well built, of solid construction, the ammeter readings are very close to the real ones obtained with a normal cabled ammeter, and it is also an accurate voltmeter, capacitor meter and resistance meter. Apart from that, you can have a square wave swinging between +- 1,5 Volts (+- half the battery supply voltage of the instrument). But what really surprised me, is the frequency counter function. Not only it does very accurately measure the frequency and the duty cycle (tested it with 5 Volts square wave, up to 80 kHz, against an oscilloscope), but it can also measure a wave that does not cross the 0 Volts axis. I measured a 2 kHz (actually 2.012 kHz) square wave, with its HIGH at 5.3 Volts and its LOW at 1.96 Volts, and the little devil measured it !!!! Precisely!!. (see photos 1 – the oscilloscope- and 2 – this ammeter). I do not know of any other general purpose instrument with frequency measurement as a “bonus feature” that can do that (my precious ANENG 8002, among others, cannot). So, next time I want to make a quick check on the triggering of a MOSFET gate, I will not have to take out my oscilloscope. I have only a note on the manual (which BTW is good) : On the last page it says “Current is not input” --> “replace fuse”. Well, there is not any fuse in it – I opened it and checked. Which was expected, as there is not any actual “high” current flowing through the instrument, what is actually flowing and measured are small induced currents – hence no fuse needed.. Overall impression : Excellent instrument, unbeatable value for money. How do I feel ? Very happy. My rating : 5++++. Thank you, Banggood.
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samtree 2020-06-03 18:26:58
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Q: Nice product but is the price right ?

Asked by samtree on 2018-07-15 02:53:27

Mohamad السعر مرتفع قليلا

2020-07-16 07:54:16 Helpful (0)
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samtree 2020-06-23 18:48:22
TIP OF ADVICE Download from INSTRUSTAR and install the software before buying – to make sure that it will work. The download package also contains a lot of documentation on the use of the Oscilloscope. OVERALL IMPRESSION: It does a great job, considering the price, and fully covers my needs. OSCILLOSCOPE PERFORMANCE : It saturates at +- 6 Volts, so by using the 10X probe you can measure up to +- 60 Volts. The curve is somewhat “hairy” but that’s OK.If you want to go higher than that, buy from Banggood a “Hantek HT-201 300V 20:1 Passive Attenuator for Oscilloscopes” (I bought two of them). EASE OF USE: Documentation could be better, but still helps. You have to experiment a little bit, but it is fairly easy. I use the “simplified S/W version. Having the entire laptop screen area to work with (mine is 17”) is simply magical. There are still features I have not discovered yet – like the “Capture” function. SPECTRUM ANALYZER: I had never used one before. I experimented a little bit, it seems to work. RECORDER: This is what I like the most. Many times, a lot of interesting things happen berore and after the trigger point, and with a normal digital oscilloscope it is hard to catch them all. Here, you can set the recording length so that you start recording before the event and stop after. Then you can analyze the whole thing by studying the parts you need, by magnifying both time and voltage. One disadvantage: The input voltage must be between minus 6 and plus 6 Volts, so you may have to set the probes to 10x (or use the 20:1 attenuator) and then multiply the readings accordingly. See attached photos of what happens at the MOSFET gate (CH1 - yellow) and the MOSFET Drain-to-Source (CH2 - blue) of an electronic fuse at short-circuit. Photo 1 is a 3 seconds recording, and Photo 2 is the magnification of the time of the short-circuit. You can even use the Cursors the take measurements (here, the fuse cut-off time). So, for me, 5+ stars and Thank You, Banggood.
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samtree 2020-06-05 07:08:49
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WiniTang https://www.banggood.com/DANIU-12pcs-900MT-Series-Solder-Iron-Tips-for-Electronic-Soldering-Iron-p-929534.html?rmmds=category&cur_warehouse=CN

2018-11-01 09:37:55 Helpful (3)
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Jay This mask is certified, if you have questions, you can contact https://www.banggood.com/Contact-Us_hi111

2020-03-25 03:06:42 Helpful (10)
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samtree In the manual it says “Setting the hysteresis parameter P1: This sets how much change in temperature must occur before the relay will change state. For example if set to the default 2oC and the the trigger temperature has been set to 25oC, it will not deenergise until the temperature falls back below below 23oC. Setting this hysteresis helps stop the thermostat from continually triggering when the temperature drifts around the trip temperature.” Well, this is wrong. When in C (cooling) mode, the relay is energized (closed) when the probe temperature reaches t = Trigger Setting + Hysteresis setting (P1) and de-energizes (opens) when while going down (cooling) it reaches t= Trigger Setting. So, in the example given in the manual, the relay will close at t=25+2 = 27 Celsius, and will open again when t=25 Celsius is reached. Now, for the question asked: Set Trigger Temperature at 4 Celsius, and Hysteresis (P1) at 3 Celsius. It will close at 4+3 = 7 Celsius, and open again at 4 Celsius.

2020-03-11 05:11:54 Helpful (1)
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